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You are paying for the time it took for the dealership to make sure that the car wouldnt explode on you in the first week of owning it. Most of the time, it works. You also will not be able to refinance for a new car until those fees are paid. Dont bother lying about your debt load and credit rating because they will check it anyway.


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I hate to tell you this but I have another offer on the table from a man that is willing to pay more money than this. If a finance manager tries to get you to report your payment method before you have decided upon purchasing the car, dont get sucked into it. Your car dealer should not know more about you than you do. Knowing this before you walk into a dealership can be your best negotiating strategy. State laws require that you must fill out a credit application before I can sell you this car. Your car dealer should not know more about you than you do.

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Closing Without the Extra Costs


So many people get ripped off after they have already closed the deal. They get you on the extras and the warranties at that point.

The extras are things like rust proofing, scotch guarding etc. It seems pretty straight forward but you would be surprised at how many people get taken on these.
The trickiest closing cost scam is the extended warranty because the language used is so confusing. This is not the warranty that the factory gives you for the car.

It is a warranty that covers the cost of fixing the car should it break down on you. To get around this, you have to know the dealers language.

Extended warranties often do cover any repairs that you require during your coverage period, but there is often some information that you are not told about.

For example, the extended warranty is usually effective only up to a certain amount of mileage or term period; whichever happens first.

They might also only cover certain types of problems. If your extended warranty doesnt cover every part of your car, why bother?

Some extended warranties dont cover the larger problems, but just the smaller ones. If your engine conks out, you may be left in the lurch.
You shouldnt even consider buying an extended warranty if you are only leasing the car for a small time period like 36 months. Perhaps it is better only for longer periods of leasing like 60 months.

Many extended warranties dont cover everyday wear and tear policies, only breakdown problems. If you do insist on getting an extended warranty, get one that covers both instances.

You will only really want to get a warranty on a more dependable car like a Lexus, Honda, or Toyota because extended warranties rarely cover the costs incurred in cars that are present at the time of purchase.

You will also want to get a warranty that is effective immediately. You will also want to get a warranty with a well established finance company and not one that go belly up in a year.

Dont purchase an extended warranty directly from the dealer. Instead look at sites on http://www.LendingTree.com for an online warranty because being online gives you all the time to asses your warranty properly.
Watch out for deductibles because you dont want to get stuck paying for deductibles that you thought were covered by the warranty.

Now lets look at some of the extras that dealers get you on at closing. This can be very irritating how they try to weasel even more money out of you in the end on stuff that you really dont need at all.

Of course, when you hear it, they will all sound dire. Its bad enough that they will throw them up at you but look at this table to show how much they are really ripping you off by.