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What you dont realize is that the fine print says that the prices include rebates. This check up that you are paying so much money for is for the dealership to remove plastic from the seats etc, vacuum the car out, and making sure that all of the fuses and fluids are ready to go. I swear they could get the car in perfectly ready to drive condition and put everything right back in it just so that they can make you pay the fee again.
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The dealer can then charge you 00 more in finance fees and up your monthly payments by . Another common scam by dealership salesmen is for them to tell you that they have found you a lower rate, but that they want you to re-sign your loan papers. If they refuse, you can then decide if the car is worth the money. Knowing this before you walk into a dealership can be your best negotiating strategy. Avoid it by forcing the guy to slow down, and calculate right along with him to make sure that you are getting a fair deal and that you both come up with the same numbers. Every new purchase has a clause in the contract that usually states that the deal is subject to loan approval.
If you want to save money while you are negotiating you should negotiate from the dealer cost up and not from the MSRP down.
You just need to remember that dealer cost is not the same as the factory invoice.
Some dealerships refuse to haggle over the cost of a car. Once you make your opening offer you should never accept anything higher than that, as far as costs go.
If the dealership that you go to doesnt haggle, dont sweat it, some other dealership will.
The reason some dealerships refuse to haggle is because they want to add extra fees to the MSRP. You will need to decide what kind of buyer you are in order to get a negotiating stance.
You do not want to set yourself up as a monthly payment buyer either because that is a guaranteed way for you to get a higher payment fee.
They will offer to take a little bit off of the MSRP. They will then ask you what you are looking to pay each month; this is where the extra money comes in.
Cash buyers are generally asked, Are willing to pay each month?
Tell them it doesnt matter because you are looking for an even division on the cost of the car, not to haggle over the monthly cost.
Tell them that you are looking to haggle over the cost of the car, not the monthly payments. This is often used for cash buyers.
If a finance manager tries to get you to report your payment method before you have decided upon purchasing the car, dont get sucked into it.
The method of payment doesnt matter unless you are deciding upon purchasing the car. Finance managers ask so that that they can best decide how to screw you over.
Some dealers will offer you to give you a better deal if you finance your car through them. I can guarantee that this will not be the case.
Of course the worst thing that you could be an impulse buyer.
An impulse buyer is just another word for victim. Impulse buyers can often get sucked into the hot car of the moment and usually get taken for as much as ,000. A dealer can see this buyer coming from a mile away.
If a dealer approaches you about the hot car tell him that you are not interested because it will not be worth the money next year as the new hot car will be out by then.
You dont want to buy a car that is in demand because it is the easiest way for a dealership to mark up the prices. The MSRP always looks low, but it is the extras and monthly payments that will lose you money.
Remember the resale value of the car doesnt change no matter how much money you bought the car for. It still depreciates in value from the factory invoice.